Banping and Teapot mountain, adventurous trekking near Taipei

Jiufen and Jinguasha are favourite weekend getaways for Taipeians. Fresh air, great scenes, history and Jiufen's old street offers a huge variety of snacks to sate the almost endless Taiwanese appetite. These obvious draws hide an even better reason to visit, the hills around these towns provide adventure and spectacular views of North and Northeast Taiwan.

There are numerous options for treks. There's the short, sharp trek up Keelung Mountain, a couple of routes to Houtong, a route all the way to Longdong on the Northeast coast and a circular route around the hills of Jinguasha. There's most probably many more routes to be discovered too.

Today, we'll focus on the circular route around Jinguasha. This trek offers a tunnel to crawl through, a rope climb up a short cliff, spectacular views over North Taiwan and a long walk to exercise those muscles of yours. It's adventurous and a great break from city life, though, if you have children, it's probably best to leave them at home.

The route starts from the parking area by Cyuanji Temple. Go through the walk tunnel, walk about 50m and the path towards Teapot Mountain starts. It's a windy path that passes some old entrances to the gold mines and provides some great views of Keelung Mountain, Jinguasha and the Pacific. It's steep but the paths are well laid out. It takes about 30 minutes to get to Teapot Mountain, an amalgamation of rocks that actually looks like a handleless teapot.

Here, the route disappears into the rocks. It confused us at first, ropes supports lead into the cave and were attached to the top. We climbed to the top of the rocks only to see people walking on the other side but no save way down. How?

tb continued

Guang Du Temple

The oldest temple in Taiwan, according to the Lonely Planet. They date its start as 1619 or something like that. It certainly doesn't look that old but that's like many things Chinese. They seem to have a different approach to old buildings. They constantly maintain these old temples so that most of them don't look that old.

Anyway, it's a huge place. It has tunnels, praying areas, many storeys and loads of things to look at. The photo is of some spinning yellow 'rubic' cubes. I haven't seen them in other temples.

Guang temple is definitely worth a visit. It covers a huge site. The front of the temple faces the Jilong river, whilst the back has a completely different view, one looking out to Danshui and Bali.

From the top fall of the temple you get an idea of the extend of the wetlands that host the Guang Du Nature reserve and some mangrove forest.

Review

Gods
Originally uploaded by orange tuesday

The original aim of Taipei Gulag was to breakout of the Expat mode and experience a fuller, richer, Taipei life. I've found myself anglo-ising my experience and not really being adventurous.

Have I change? Not really, I'm still flow within small circles but I'm eating more adverturously. I go the market much more often, I've tried many different things and have found out about many new restaurants. The amazing thing about Taipei is there's always a restaurant close by. The choice of food is amazing, especially when I think back to the UK. In my home town there many be 20 restaurants but you get that on a block here (at least), even in London, you usually have to make a journary to go to a good restaurant.

Here's to being more adventurous! The good thing about winter is that you can walk a lot more. The heat is bearable , even now and with the food changes with the seasons here.

Cheers

Nurses promote music

Nurses
Originally uploaded by orange tuesday

Here are the playboy girls rivals. I think the playboy girls won as the nurses went over to have their photos taken with them.

At least the nurses were promoting something related to their costumes. Well, kinda. They're promoting DS Music Restaurant, which from the flyer, looks like a live music venue. Also from the flyer, the restaurant's table are styled on hospital beds, with a dip attached to the end and the chairs are hard plastic hospital chairs. The food doesn't look that bad, hot pots, beef, prawns and a fancy looking seafood rice pie bordered with aloe vera leaves.

If you want to see more photos of girls in nurses uniform.

http://www.drs.com.tw/image.asp

Unfortunately, the site is in Chinese. These pictures are more interesting - activities - you can take shots by syringes

http://www.drs.com.tw/activity.asp

Taipei's restaurant

Xin Sheng north road, section 3, no. 7 --0 2 2587-3226

There's also a restaurant in Xinbei, nr Xinju.

All n all it looks great fun. Perhaps, a chance to see the wilder side of Taipei-ians. Girls in uniform, mmm, there's also something on the flyer 'show girl', which is probably some tame dance by a girl dressed up a nurse. The shot from a syringe has to be tried.

Playboy Girls

playboy girls pink sketch
Originally uploaded by orange tuesday

These girls were outside Zhongshan MRT last Sunday. Despite their bunny outfits, they were stuff like CDs, cough sweets, toilet paper and perfumes for shops at the nearly underground mall.

I guess that Taiwan. Next to them were some nurses, well at least girls dressed up as nurses, who were promoting the hospital bar/restaurant. They have a girl show too, apparently.

flower powered city1

flower powered city1
Originally uploaded by orange tuesday

This is just messing around with maps. This is a transit map at Xinpu MRT. I didn't realise how useful they were, until I used this one at Xinpu. From the map, I was able to get a bus to Sansia - it was great!

Longshan Temple

Saturday 11th, there was a lot of activity in front of Longshan temple. Many shrines had been erected, there were fortune tellers, lots of people sat in groups and making paper offerings, herbal tea on offer but the thing that stuck out most, was the public displays of religion.

I feel that the Taiwaneses are quite private about their religion. They have a shrine at home and sometimes go to the temple but it's very different to how Christains do things. Public 'services' at temples are fairly rare. Most people go, do their thing, maybe asks the gods a questions and throw moon stones, and then go.

Anyway, it was different that day. There was healing, chanting and dancing. In the group photo, a lively group kept going for several hours, dancing around some symbols on the floor. Later that evening, a disabled boy was wheeled around with the people clapping, dancing and chanting. I'm not sure who they were but I'm guessing that they might be the Falun Dada (Gong).

The Naruwan Centre, LongShan Temple MRT

snail on chopsticks
Originally uploaded by orange tuesday

Here's Steph eating a snail. This is one of the aboriginal dishes available at the newly opened Naruwan Centre. They have some other unusual dishes as well, like raw meat from Wulai (I'm not sure whether it's the one featured on Bizarre Foods - Andrew Zimmern), pine juice (taste fresh, just like the smell) and pumpkin ice cream. I tried custard apple ice cream - a little icey but the taste was creamy.

The Saturday we went, there was live music and a great atmosphere. Aboriginal people are great musicians and very outgoing. At one time, they grabbed me and I ended up doing a dance around the centre with some of the people working there. They are genuinely friendly.

Unfortunately, I can't find their card at the moment or their address on the internet. The only directions I can give are; go down the night market that passes the 'tourist night market' and carry on until the end of the road. On the opposite side is the Naruwan Centre. Naruwan means 'welcome' in one of the Taiwanese aboriginal languages.

Three Screams

Just as you think you are an adverturer, just as you have plucked up your guts and ate something beyond, then you hear another story.

Last week, after a week of being in Vietnam and of saying I would, I finally ate an egg with an embryo. It was difficult and I didnt' particularly enjoy but I did it. I think it's best known as Balut, as it's known in the Philippines, but in Vietnam it's known as Trung Vit Lon.

I enjoyed the yolk. It was firm and meaty. The embryo was surprisingly soft. The head a guooy mess but I had to chew on the wing for a little while.

Anyway, last night, I heard about a Cantonese dish called the 'Three Screams'. It involves eating a raw baby mouse. The name comes from the actions, the first scream is from picking up the mouse with chopsticks, the second, from dipping it into soy sauce and the third from eating it.

In the same conversation, the infamous monkey brain came up as well. My Taiwanese friends insist it's all in China and not in Taiwan but the 'three screams' is something else. It could be used in so many different ways.

Oysters from Penghu

Steph visited Penghu a few weeks ago and was so impressived with the oysters there, ordered 3 kilos for our moon cake festival bbq.

That's a lot of oysters for two people! I firsted tried bbq oysters in Tainan and fell in love them. I found them much more tasty than when eaten raw. They have a pleasing smoky flavour that means I can a lot more then their raw cousins.

I was really surprised that they only cost 300 NT$, including post. Steph's friend said that the ones she took were still alive when she got home - can't beat that for freshness.

Calling all night market fans!

I've recently rediscovered my love of night markets. A year from the capital and I had forgotten the bright lights, the strange food and the endless activities of the 'night city' (direct translation of night market)

Last week I went to Raohe night market twice. I love the carnival atmosphere, the business and the exotic fluorescent colours. I especially like the activities that you just don't see in the West (well in London, anyway).

Face threading, which from what I've read is the removal of facial hair by a thread. Women used to have this treatment just before getting married but now both women and men get this treatment done. If you know more about this or have experienced this treatment, I would love to hear from you.

I also had my future predicted by a bird. My girlfriend said that it was nonsense and a waste of money, saying 'the owners train the birds by feeding them each time they pick a card. The bird doesn't know your future and it's just stupid'.

I chosed to ignore my girlfriend's advice as I fancied the idea of having my future told by a bird and I also wanted a new experience. Perhaps, I should've listened to my girlfriend as the bird predicted/advised that I should be an employee and never work for myself.

I want to write more about night markets. If you love or hate them, I would love to hear from you. Especially what it is about these places that provoke such views.

These pictures are from Raohe market but if you know other interesting night markets in Taipei, then please leave a comment.

Huashan Cultural and Creative Industry Centre

What's in a reflection
Originally uploaded by orange tuesday

Bored of modern blocky Taipei? Want to go somewhere with some history, some character and with open parkland? Then Huashan is the place to go.

Located on Bade and Zhongxiao road intersection, this former winery is easy to get to and usually has plenty going on. With attractive and semi-derelict buildings, this place attracts lovers, artsy types and the odd photography club.

They also have many events going on. Last weekend there was a box camera event and an exhibition on a company that has brough foreign acts to Taiwan's theatre. I have attended DIY events, which were fun.

There does seem to be some controversay over the site though, as the government has fiddled with you runs the site. Also, it used to be called the Huashan Cultural Centre. Still, the box camera event was fun and free.

I'm sure that the centre used to have an English website but I can't find it. http://www.huashan1914.com/Templates/Model1/index.jsp

Box cameras at Huashan cultural centre

Huashan cultural centre
Originally uploaded by orange tuesday

Last Sunday, whilst wandering around Huashan, we came across a 'box camera' event.

You could take a box camera, take a photo and then bring it back to be developed.
The cameras were made out of strong cardboard and had different sized aperatures (holes) that let in different amounts of light. The first camera I took, needed a 9 second exposure in bright sunlight. The result is above and I'm very pleased with the result.
The strange thing, was that the more I understood how the camera worked, the worse my pictures got.

End of ghost month

End of ghost month
Originally uploaded by orange tuesday

Last Thursday, was the end of ghost month and many places over Taipei held ceremonies. Here's a link about Ghost month - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ghost_Festival

The day started early at my local temple. I heard them from my bed at around 6:30, chanting, banging things and generally keeping me awake. Later, when I went down to see what was happening, I was invited to have some food, some local sweet dishes. There were many people there. Some were involved in preparing food for what must have been a feast and others busily sorting out the logistics, arrival of vans, seating arrangements and constantly inviting passers by to join in.

The priest and four assistants where chanting at an attar. It was very relaxing as the chanting was accompanying by some music. The attar was covered in offerings, everything from fresh fruit, to alcohol, ghost money and fireworks. They chanted for the time I was there, 45 minutes.

So the doors of the three realms are closed now (heaven, hell and earth?) but according to my girlfriend, the world is still of ghosts. Here, they have a very different perception of ghosts. I'll have to do some more investigating on this.

Art Taipei

Billed as the best art expo in the Far East, Art Taipei 2008 delivered on beauty, intrigue and new ideas. It's laissez faire approach to photography was also a surprised. I was able to photograph most of the exhibits with no hassle. Only a few of the exhibits were off limits to photographers.

I spent most of my time photographing the exhibits but I did stop a few times to talk to artists or gallery representatives.

Vincent, of Non Gallery (English name? but here's the link http://www.loranger.com.tw/), explained their artist's idea was to replace meat with human 'meat' and to provoke discussion on the treatment of animals. The butcher's stand and the baby platter worked well and people were indeed curious, if slightly disturbed by the images.

Ian Findlay-Brown of Asian Art News and World Sculpture News, thought business was slow despite the crowds. Though the paintings were not at Art Taipei, his assistant was excited by an exhibit of Laotian painting in Singapore.

Chang En Tzu stitch work series on Snow White presented what could be a modern day contradiction towards sex. Where woman/girls try to achieve an ideal image only to be unsure and unhappy of the reaction it provokes in the opposite sex. Unfortunately, my Britishness, (my inability to talk frankly about sex) didn't reveal any insights from the artist about the meaning of her works. Visit her blog http://changen-tzu.blogspot.com/

Other works of note, (sorry, I didn't record the names of the artists) included a man, who attached blood capsules over his body, which he exploded by remote control. His work included a video and photographs. Another crowd drawer was carvings of a boy and girl out of wood. Despite being slight in depth, these carvings had an extraordinary 3D effect and looked very life like. There were quite a few works that created movement and life likeness through 3D trickery.

Another crowd favourite (at least in numbers) was the use of pornagraphic models that had their heads replaced by famous people. One photograph, had the Venezuelian president, Chavez, dogging Condoleeza Rice, whilst the Iranian president sat and smiled. Other stars of this series included Bush, Osama Bin Laden, Princess Diana and the Queen, Hilary Clinton and the cast of Harry Potter.

Taipei, sometimes things are different

Sometimes the sea is different
Originally uploaded by orange tuesday

An osscillating siren purred like an overbearing cat, increasing in pitch, then falling, fading away, only to increase in pitch again. This noise signal the start of a military drill in Taipei and six other cities in North Taiwan.

The siren osscillated several times and on the last osscillation, the pitch fall into a long, slow eerie death. At the death, people are suppose to be off the streets. To check this I needed to go outside on to my balcony.

Indeed the street seems quiet and I look down to the intersection. No traffic, thought there were still people on the streets and some motorcycles on the side roads. Two policeman had taken up position on the intersection. One stopped an old lady crossing the road, whilst the other forced a motorcyclist to get off his bike.

What made this sight more bizarre was that traffic lights were still changing colour. Turning green, to amber, to red and back again.

It's easy to forget that Taiwan and China are at odds. Everyday life, evades this fact. Everyday, the world turns, there's day and then there's night. People get up, eat breakfast, work, eat lunch, work, go home, eat dinner, watch TV, have sex, sleep. Just another extraordinary day to some and to others, just another ordinary day.

There's no mass fear in Taiwan about China, at least not that I can detect. People are too busy, making money, living, studying to worry about things like this. But it's times like this, when everything stops that makes you think 'What if'. What if China thinks it hard enough? What would it do? Taiwan is so small and densely populated that an enraged China could do an immense about of damage. But then would it be worth it for China? Who knows? I don't have answers to such questions.

Perhaps, every city should have those drills. Once a year, for 30 minutes, people must get off the streets, stop what they're doing and think or talk or do something different. It could have a theme '30 minutes changing the world time' or '30 minutes of love'.

It's three o'clock again. The siren sounds again, this time a one long wail and a short falling pitch to mark its death.

I rush outside to see what's happening. Already, there are cars on the street. People get onto motorcycles. Life starts again. The exercise is over and for another year, I'll probably forget about the situation between Taiwan and China.

Vicious Circle

Finally went there this weekend and it didn't disappoint.

Me and Steph spotted it some weeks ago, looking seedy down some narrow alleyway. We didn't go, too drunk I guess. Last week, I saw it in the daytime and it looked a bit intimidating from the outside, though I saw it was a punk bar, so worth seeing sometime.

Then walking back with Lewis, last Saturday, we decided to go in. It was black on the inside too, and tarted in various bric a brac, some cute asian toys but mostly punk memorabilia. They have a 299 NT $ all you can drink offer. It's cramped upstairs but there are other rooms.

Next week, they'll have three bands playing, so hopefully, we'll get to see some Asian punks or 'anti' punks next week.

Life in Shifen

Life in Shifen
Originally uploaded by orange tuesday

The Pingxi village is only an 1hr and 30 mins away from Taipei. It's well worth going as it's slow to Taipei's fast, green to Taipei's grey and fresh to Taipei's stuffiness.

This photo appeared in the magazine version. For a full run down on the Pingxi valley, visit this link.

http://en.highway11.net/pages/full_story?page_label=news_currentissue&id=121777-How-Green-is-Pingxi-Valley-&article-How-Green-is-Pingxi-Valley-%20=&widget=push&instance=news_special_coverage_right_column&open=&

Taipei from Elephant mountain

taipei 101 hdr
Originally uploaded by orange tuesday

This is also from Elephant mountian but a bit further on. About 5 mins further than the rocks.

Taipei at night, with dreamy sky

Taipei at night, with dreamy sky
Originally uploaded by orange tuesday

Elephant Mountain is a great place to see Taipei at night. It has an excellent view of Taipei 101 and many people come here both day and night to take photos of it.

Elephant Mountain is a 'short' twenty walk that extracts every ounce of sweat from your body. A walk, that you start off walking and then to a determined slogg, which graduately slows down to a crawl. This short but steep walk is forested and provides ever better views of Taipei. Despite the initial struggle, you're greatly rewarded for your efforts once you reach the rocks of Elephant mountain.

At sunset, these rocks will be covered with photographers, busily clicking every subtle change of light over Taipei. This is just one of several places where photographer's gather. Once, here, the walk is much easier as the route flattens out.

The path goes on and there are maps that show an extensive set of paths.